Ascend with Rhi — In Sardinia

Born and raised in Wales and then relocated to Tallahassee Florida when she was just twelve years old, Rhiannon Klee Williams knew something of adventure at a young age. After college, she made the big move out West. “I’ve lived a pretty transient life up until recently and currently live in Bishop CA, in the Eastern Sierra—the range of light and land of giant granite boulders. I work as a full time artist, creating works from time spent in nature. I am also a climber and my passion for climbing takes me on adventures all over the world.” Her most recent adventure? A journey to the enchanting island of Sardinia, Italy. Where she had climbed once before, and since longed to return to again. 

“A few days after my husband and I got married, we decided to plan an impromptu honeymoon. We wanted to go somewhere that would be relaxing but also adventurous, and Sardinia seemed to be the ticket.” The quaint island off the coast of Italy has been a topic of fascination and mystery for explorers, mythologists, and climbers for centuries. The ancient Greeks attached quite a bit of significance to the island, as it became the basis of various theories that would link it to the legendary Atlantis — the mystical land that Plato described in his dialogues. “There’s something wild about climbing the sardinian limestone, especially the oceanside crags, but at the same time, it feels relaxed with the salty air and warm sunshine. The island has a strong cultural identity and a mysterious air about it, steeped in mythology and a place where some of the oldest people in the world live.” Watching Rhi scale the side of a cliff feels reminiscent of watching an artist brilliantly and slowly paint on a canvas, each hold and new grip another stroke of the brush. Poetry in motion. Being immersed in her world was a gift, packing all the promise and thrill of new adventure. Aren’t those the moments you chase without question? Throwing all caution to the wind?

“When we first arrived in the bustling city of Cagliari, I remember wandering around for food in a jet-lagged daze. It was late, but the streets were vibrant, strung with lights and packed with people enjoying meals at the seemingly infinite restaurants that lined the streets. It was the first international trip that Drew and I had taken together since covid. We had booked the trip impulsively, a couple days after our wedding and two days later we were on a plane en route to Europe. After one night in Cagliari, we took a bus a few hours north, arriving at the small village of Ullassi. Ullassai is nestled in the flanks of the Ogliastra mountains. The charm of the village is undeniable: rows of pastel terraced homes, cobblestone alleys, friendly locals welcoming you with a “buongiorno!” in passing. On a clear day you can see the ocean. 

We were there during the off season, so many of the restaurants were closed, but we had a favorite pizzeria we would walk to in the next village over. The limestone crags rose around the town in all directions. After long mornings drinking espresso and indulging in butter croissants, we would chase afternoon shade at the limestone crags. On the first trip to Sardinia, the weather was hot and humid, making your skin sweat and the limerstone holds feel soapy. Most climbers don’t like climbing in the heat, but I actually don’t mind it. I feel more relaxed and like my body can move freely. I found that the slow pace of the days translated into leisurely climbing, which at the end of the day, was the whole point of the trip. Drew and I usually go on climbing trips that involve a lot more suffering (climbing in the cold, getting scared and pushing our limits). This was a different tempo.”

“I love getting to revisit a place you’ve been to before because it’s like you get to step through a portal back to the memories of that place and you also get to keep adding to your experience and make it a whole new thing. There’s comfort in it because with some aspects you know what to expect, but there’s still so much room for new experiences and expansion. Having the opportunity to go back with the Roark crew was so special. We got to show everyone our favorite climbing crags but also got to explore new places together.” When it comes to climbing, “My mantra is more or less about enjoying the climbing for what it is and not to define success by summits or sends because then you are simplifying this multifaceted complex experience into such black and white terms and robbing yourself of a rich experience.”

While climbing took a large chunk of the first trip, Rhi made sure to prioritize connection to self and slowing down with intention the second go around. “On the second trip in particular, I remembered how much I love to travel for travel’s sake. Taking in each day without routine or much of an agenda. One of my favorite parts of the trip was getting to visit Heart Studios, established by two artists based in Santadi, a small village in the south of Sardinia. Their work is rich with motifs and folklore from the island. They live in a quiet location, where they can really focus on their work and connection to the landscape. Their work was so true to who they were and it inspired me to continue to stay true to who I am an artist and to follow my gut.”

“I am an avid journaler and even if it’s just a few sentences, I usually jot something down. The first trip was a little slower in pace so I had spacious mornings to drink coffee and write in my journal. I also painted a series of starscapes. While the imagery wasn’t necessarily linked to the Sardinian landscape specifically, I was exploring the ideas of infinity and connections and how the vastness of the night sky feels like one of the greatest mysteries that you can take in visually in this world. A part of life that endlessly drives me to lean into gut feelings and follow tangents to seemingly endless places.” While the insane landscape, climbing, warm weather and emerald green water was rich in this fascinating place, so too was the culture and the food. “ Culurgionis d’Ogliastra , aka Sardinian ravioli, melts in your mouth! Culurgiònes are essentially handmade dumplings filled with potatoes, pecorino cheese, mint and or other ingredients. While I did enjoy the delicious wine, a negroni was my go to cocktail of choice.” All in all—limestone cliffs, the night sky, emerald waters, and nightly negroni’s sound like all the right ingredients for memories to last a lifetime (and maybe even the Fountain of Youth itself).

“When I was very young, we lived in a caravan in the garden of my grandparent’s farm house. I got to spend a lot of time running free in the fields with my sisters. Climbing trees and exploring the land, wild as a child should be. As I grew older, I became very serious about the sport of gymnastics and lost touch with that wild spirit for a while. In adulthood, I rediscovered my love for adventure and nature, feeling that I finally returned home to myself.”