Refuge in a Remote Bay

Mankind's relationship with Gray Whales has come a long way to say the least. In the 19th century, gray whale breeding grounds were discovered and exploited by humans, killing off most of the population. Since protection laws that came into place throughout the twentieth century, the population of these gentle giants has rebounded greatly. Today, our relationship with the species is one of awe and wonder that these massive creatures have persevered, despite their violent history, to have nurturing and loving interactions with humans.

Fresh off of an Expedition in Antarctica, Roark Women’s Ambassador Brinkley Davies illustrates just how far the relationship between whales and humans has come on her most recent strike mission to Baja. Driving across the chaotic border from California during an epic storm, they navigated their way down to a remote bay in Baja to see these gentle creatures spawn, rest, and play. After a 6000 mile journey from Alaska, Gray Whales seek a place of refuge and peace where they can rejuvenate and raise their calves until the end of the season turns them out on their next journey. “Where we were is a completely remote location and for that reason, the whales are protected and completely free.”

For a short period of time each year, in this remote bay of Baja that is a UNESCO World Heritage protected area, these intelligent creatures interact with a small number of wooden boats and locals in the area. “This is something that is very rare, and is built on decades of trust with humans in this area. I had multiple whales approach the boat, scratch themselves on the boat, and siphon to be eye-eye with us. If we didn’t reach our hands out, they would gently nudge the boat—they demanded interaction. I've never experienced whales where it is so obvious they are trying to speak to us in their own way. They are rough, where they have barnacles, and sea lice, then they are smooth outside of that, they rolled over like puppies and pushed their heads close to us, it felt surreal. It brought me happy tears many times.”

For a short period of time each year, in this remote bay of Baja that is a UNESCO World Heritage protected area, these intelligent creatures interact with a small number of wooden boats and locals in the area. “This is something that is very rare, and is built on decades of trust with humans in this area. I had multiple whales approach the boat, scratch themselves on the boat, and siphon to be eye-eye with us. If we didn’t reach our hands out, they would gently nudge the boat—they demanded interaction. I've never experienced whales where it is so obvious they are trying to speak to us in their own way. They are rough, where they have barnacles, and sea lice, then they are smooth outside of that, they rolled over like puppies and pushed their heads close to us, it felt surreal. It brought me happy tears many times.”

Brinkley found that she couldn’t get much distance between her and these magnetic creatures. Camping in tents next to the water, where the whales hummed to one another and breached, they were always a stone's-throw away from one another. She was even reminded that the whales weren’t the only locals to the area, “The air was crisp and cool. I fell asleep to the coyotes howling in the distance.”

Accustomed to steering and directing her own vessel, Brinkley was in awe of the experienced skippers and crew on a small, traditional style Mexican boat, which was “almost like a glamorized kayak!” Watching the locals interact with these gentle giants felt like something entirely new to someone who spends most of their life on the water. “The locals here have a special connection with these whales. It's almost as if the whales see these wooden boats, and the humm of their small outboards (which are in neutral of course when the whales approach) act as some kind of calling to the whales that it’s playtime. We had multiple hours where whales dwarfed the boat, their mouths wide open on the bottom of the hull, pushing us along like we were a big toy. Yet non-threatening and gentle still.”

Brinkley’s Baja expedition reminded us of the resolve, strength, and emotional intellect of these massive, gentle creatures—something we will not soon be able to forget. Their unparalleled majesty and their renewed trust in humankind gives us hope still for a future where humans and wildlife can coexist in harmony. But we’ve still got work to do.